It only took five minute within our first meeting for Dharm to declare his love affair with chocolate. As he ticked the various chocolate recipes off his fingers, I wondered if that was all he enjoyed cooking. Then he started on wines and I knew we had a fellow who not only loves his food but understands it as well.
With Dharm, every dish has a history. A cherished memory that is as intricately spun in his cooking as it is in his heart. So when he serves you, it’s not only food that you’re getting but part of him as well. Even his characteristics are reflected in his food. His generousity shone in the liberal mushroom topping for Porkers Delight, his impishness was evident in the liqueur-soaked tiramisu and his appreciation for the finer things in life was the main ingredient for the chocolate mousse.
Dharm is serious about his food, but he doesn’t take it too seriously. He insists that cooking is more about fun than about getting it perfect. It’s about sharing your happiness pill with the rest of the world and hopefully, getting them addicted as well.
When did you stumble into the kitchen?
When I was about eight or nine. I have two elder brothers and all of us were required to assist mum in the kitchen. For some reason, I was the only one who took a deep interest in food and cooking.
Your earliest food success?
Cheesecake. My parents entertained frequently and my mother’s cheesecake was renowned in their circle of friends. One day she asked me to help her with dessert, so I made the cheesecake under her watchful eye. Later that night, the guests complimented her skills and she announced that I had made it. From then on, I began baking cheesecakes for all the family functions.
But your passion is still chocolate.
Without a doubt! I marked my college years by baking my mother’s famous chocolate cake for the first time. Chocolate is such a versatile ingredient! You can use it to make soups and desserts and even as a garnishing. But you must use good quality chocolate. Cadbury Old Gold is excellent. And there’s a cooking goods shop in USJ8 called Best 23, which sells amazing dark chocolate.
Are there any dishes you avoid?
Anything that’s too time-consuming or fussy. Fruitcake is one of them. Rendang is another. What’s the point of slaving for hours over a hot stove when you can get better rendang outside? I steer clear of cookies and tarts too. All that pressing and moulding is too much of a hassle. Plus you have to bake them in batches, unlike cakes, and that’s just a waste of time.
Who’s your muse?
My wife. She loves desserts too and is always spurring me to experiment or replicate dishes she sampled in restaurants. And each time she raves about a dish she’s eaten, I feel compelled to do it better!
Do you think people have stopped enjoying food as an experience?
Oh, yes! Food is so readily available here and no one takes the extra effort to make something special. People hardly cook nowadays. They are also very accepting of substandard food, which has sadly become the norm in many eateries these days. TV dinners are also part of the food culture. It compromises the food experience, but it’s more for practicality’s sake than anything else. For instance, we rarely dine at the table because of the children. However, we’re trying to teach our four-year-old son, Michael, the importance of sit-down dinners. In fact, he’s already expressed an interest in cooking and is always asking to hold the cake beater or add in the spices.
Your secret food dream?
To open a café that only serves desserts and finger food. But I don’t have the guts to do that so it may always remain just a dream!
The unspoken rule of cooking is…
To always follow your instincts. At the end of the day if you’re happy with what you cook and you can eat it, it doesn’t matter what anyone else says.